Cultural Fault lines: Discovering Trieste & Istria

Date - Wednesday 9 April - Tuesday 15 April 2025

Lecturer - James Hill

Location - Trieste, Italy & Potoroz, Slovenia

Price - £3195

Trieste rests on a cultural and political fault line, a ‘sublime meditation’ of a city which for the writer Jan Morris signified ‘the meaning of nowhere’. Once a Habsburg free port, Trieste’s neighbour Venice was just as influential, the mother city’s architectural timbre carved into the buildings and towns all along the pretty Istrian coast in what is today the Slovene Littoral and Northern Croatia. Our gently paced visit is an opportunity to discover the influence of Austria and Venice in both fascinating Trieste in Italy and the charming Istrian Peninsula in both Slovenia and Croatia.

    • Discover Trieste, one of Italy’s most enigmatic and atmospheric cities

    • Explore the undiscovered Istrian Peninsula including the Croatian town of Pula

    • Remarkable blend of Habsburg & Venetian history

    • Marvellous selection of art & monuments across the centuries

    • Very good Friulian, Slovene & Istrian food & wine

    • Centrally located 5* hotels in Trieste & at coastal Portoroz on the Slovene Littoral

    Your first question might well be is Trieste Italian? Or perhaps, is Istria Croatian? The answer to both is an ambiguous yes, and no. Trieste and its immediate southerly neighbour, Istria, rest on important cultural and geopolitical fault lines. Both fell successively under Venetian and Habsburg domination for much of the last millennium. Together with their ancient Roman and Byzantine predecessors, all have left an indelible mark on the coastal towns and idyllic villages of the Istrian Peninsula - from Trieste and the Slovene Littoral in the North to Pula at its southern Croatian tip. This cultural mix is still felt today in the political detritus of the last century, indeed of the last few decades, as the former Yugoslavia disintegrated. Language, religion and cuisine straddles three worlds: Italy and the Mediterranean, Slovenia and Mittel Europe, plus Croatia and the Balkans. Our visit will explore these varied histories, seen against a diverse selection of buildings representing these three nations along the northern Adriatic. 

    Trieste and the Istrian Peninsula developed rapidly following Julius Caesar’s conquest of the Veneti and the Istri tribes and its subsequent consolidation under the Emperor Augustus, as seen in the many Roman remains at Trieste and Pula. Trieste is a city of strong contrasts: though now in Italy, it is not obviously Italian in either looks or culture. It is more a place shaped by the Habsburgs who controlled Trieste for centuries until 1918, a veritable ‘Vienna-on-Sea’. Rapid economic growth in the nineteenth century, based on Habsburg administrative reforms consolidated Trieste’s status as a ‘free port’ within the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Its commercial network attracted Italian, Balkan, Greek and German-speaking merchants, even an Irish writer called James Joyce - all contributing to the city’s unique cultural ‘feel’. Enlightened businessmen founded major shipping and insurance companies whilst embellishing the city with palaces and art collections, all of which we shall encounter in this handsome and fascinating city.   

    Venice’s dominant role in Istria’s history is literally carved into the very fabric of beguiling coastal towns and inland hilltop villages. Classical loggias, handsome piazzas, splendid churches and secular buildings shaped from brilliant white Istrian limestone all proudly sing of the beauty of ‘Venice’. Piran, Pula and Porec are testament to Venice’s tenacious grip of its Adriatic possessions, which inevitably dissolved with the arrival of Napoleon, the end of Venetian independence and the full annexation of Istria to Austria-Hungary.

    In Trieste we stay at the 5*Grand Hotel Duchi D’Aosta, perfectly situated in Piazza dell’Unita’ D’Italia, Trieste’s iconic main square facing the Adriatic. Handsome palazzi, piazzas full of bars, restaurants, shops and most of which we plan to visit are within easy walking distance. The 5* Hotel Kempinski Palace is a historic property located in the coastal Istrian town of Portoroz in Slovenia, overlooking the charming waterfront. This luxury hotel has a heated salt-water indoor and outdoor pool, sauna and two restaurants.  

  • Day 1: Wednesday 9 April – We fly from London Heathrow to Venice, arriving in the afternoon and transfer by coach to Trieste staying for three nights at the 5* Grand Hotel Duchi D’Aosta. In the evening there will be a group dinner in a local restaurant – wine, water and coffee are included with all group lunches and dinners.

    Day 2: Thursday 10 April – We begin at Borgo Teresiano, an ensemble of neoclassical spaces and buildings developed during the rule of the Empress Maria Teresa. After a coffee break, we visit the Cathedral of San Giusto and the nearby Citadel, both dominating the city from their lofty hill-side perch. Nearby, there is also the small, very interesting Archaeological Museum, where there is a memorial to the founder of art history, the eighteenth-century scholar J J Winckelmann, tragically murdered in Trieste in 1768. After lunch (not included) we drive the short distance along the coast to Castello di Miramare, the seaside villa home of the ill-fated Emperor of Mexico, Maximilian of Habsburg. We return to Trieste where the evening will be free.

    Day 3: Friday 11 April – Our half day focuses on two nineteenth century ‘house-museum’ collections. The Sartorio Museum displays the paintings and decorative arts of one of Trieste’s leading families, including works by G.B Tiepolo and Venetian artists working on the Istrian Peninsula. Likewise, the Museo Revoltella is the most important collection in the city, amassed by the Trieste businessman, Baron Revoltella. Highlights include his sumptuous apartment and a modern art gallery with works from the last century. Lunch (not included) and the remainder of the afternoon will be free for private explorations. Later in the evening we meet for our group dinner.

    Day 4: Saturday 12 April – We depart Trieste and drive to the Slovene Littoral and the coastal town of Piran. Five centuries of Venetian rule have left an indelible mark on this delightful ‘mini-Venice’ perched on a partially walled spur of land. Our walk through the town will include a visit to the panoramic, baroque Cathedral of St George. After lunch (not included), we drive the very short distance to nearby Portoroz and the Istrian Peninsula, arriving at the 5* Hotel Kempinski mid-afternoon. Later in the evening we will have a group dinner in a local restaurant.

    Day 5: Sunday 13 April – We begin two days exploring Istria. We drive into Croatia to visit coastal Porec where we pause for coffee. In 553 AD Bishop Euphrasius built an extensive ecclesiastical complex including a Basilica which we shall visit. It contains some of the finest Byzantine mosaicsin the Balkans. Following our visit, we drive inland to Motovun where we pause for a group lunch. This fortified panoramic hilltop town came under Venetian control in 1278, acting as a border check overlooking the strategic Mirna Valley below. Today the valley is blanketed with vineyards, one of which we shall visit for an afternoon wine-tasting. We return to Portoroz where the evening will be free.

    Day 6: Monday 14 April – We travel to the tip of Istria to visit its largest city, Pula. Raised to the status of a Roman colonia in 46 AD, Pula’s lasting architectural legacy is reflected in an array of ancient Roman buildings including some well-preserved Roman gates, the Temple of Augustus and Pula’s Amphitheatre, one of the finest arenas in the Roman world. Following lunch (not included), We return to Portoroz where later in the evening we have our final group dinner in our hotel.

    Day 7: Tuesday 15 April – We depart Porteroz and travel deeper into Slovenia to the Vipava Valley north of Trieste, where we have lunch in a nationally renowned Michelin-starred restaurant. In the afternoon we continue to Venice Airport for our early evening flight to London Heathrow.

  • Price £3195 Without flights £2965  Deposit £450 per person Single Supplement £695 (Double for Sole Use)

    Hotels

    3 nights with breakfast at the 5* Grand Hotel Duchi D’Aosta, Trieste – DSU in deluxe rooms, couples/two sharing in superior rooms

    3 nights with breakfast at the 5* Hotel Kempinski Palace, Portoroz – DSU in classic rooms, couples/two sharing in superior rooms (all rooms at Kempinski have king-sized beds, baths and balconies with seating)

    Flights British Airways

                Outward:  BA470 Depart London Heathrow (Terminal 5) 1255, arrive Venice 1605

                Return:     BA469 Depart Venice 1815, arrive London Heathrow (Terminal 5) 1930

    Price includes 4 dinners & 2 lunches with water, wine & coffee, all local transfers, entry fees & gratuities, services of James Hill and our local guide in Pula

    Not included 2 dinners and 4 lunches. Travel to and from Heathrow

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